Genuine E3D PT100 Temperature Sensor (E-PT100-100-MOLEX)

Just what i needed for my ultimaker 2.Works great.

Be SUPER careful with the wires and make SURE your wiring CANNOT snag ANYWHERE.Seriously.. I've ruined 2 of these by the wire pulling a TINY bit at the end of the X-Axis travel and it either rips the wires right out, or breaks them internally. They are SUPER fragile and at $20 a piece... That's not cheap.Something I did learn though, if you're willing to put forth the effort. If you search Amazon you can find a 10 pack of PT100 sensors with metal casing and thin white wires. The metal case is too large to fit into the E3D Hotend, but if you're careful with a dremel/wire cutters you can cut off the metal casing and there is a PT100 sensor inside that's shaped just like a regular resistor (It's a thin film PT100). Then you just need to find a copper/brass casing that you can slide it into and solder the wires onto it. I used some thermal epoxy to hold it.Overall the above solution is a lot cheaper (10 for $10, vs 1 for $20) with a small investment for the thermal epoxy and small copper tubing/casing.

it ran fine on duet wifi board but i could watch the temp fluctuate on the control screen, tapping the wire would make it go up and down. Eventually i ended up un-plugging and plugging the sensor back in and it would read fine. worked fine for small prints. The constant movement would make such a huge temp difference after awhile that the print would fail or look ugly. do not use a pt-100 sensor with a plug, resistance will not stay constant.

Replaced a Ultimaker 2 temp probe that broke. Arrived fast and at a good price. Would buy again, but hopefully I won't break the new probe.

Had to end up buying more than one, the wires are very weak at the thermistor end

Works as described. Work excellent with my e3D online V6 hot end and my Duet Wifi controller.

Using with an amp board on my MK3, with modified firmware to accommodate. Max temp is now 410c. This RTD is poorly assembled. The wires are fragile. I suggest using internal adhesive heat shrink tubing (marine type) at the molex connector side. If you need these keep a spare. Updating my review to lower it, the quality and life expectance is low, the quality is horrible.Revised, I have ordered three of these, two lasted less then a month each. Do not waste your money

Unfortunately this did not work with my CR-10S S5 printer with the new V2.1 motherboard that CR-10 has been sending out which has the dual extruder option. My original board croaked (needs a mosfet replaced so will do that and keep as spare) so I ordered a new board and thermistor. Well after 3.5 days of troubleshooting on/off as I had times and consulting the CR-10 3D printing group on FaceBook this led me back to this thermistor being faulty or providong the wrong reading to my board.Returned and ordered the BLUE wired thermistor (Genuine E3D Thermistor Cartridge (E-SEMITEC-50-MOLEX) Semitec 104GT thermistors)